Half Dome: My Experience with the Hike and What To Expect
*If you are looking for a romanticized or detailed account of my Half Dome hike, I will link that blog at the end of the article*
In June of 2019, I took on the famous hike from the floor of Yosemite Valley to the top of one of the most iconic landmarks in all of the North American national parks, Half Dome. In order to do this, I had to research more than I ever had for any other hike I have done and I still ended up surprised by some of the obstacles that I encountered on that adventure. Here I would like to share some of the lessons I learned and archive some of the resources I gathered during the months that took me to the top of the legendary mound of granite nestled in the heart of Yosemite National Park.
Ascending to the top of Half Dome was thought to be an impossible dream by the first adventurers to attempt daring climbs of the cliff faces that give Yosemite Valley it’s unique landscape, and for many years that remained true. This was until George Anderson succeeded in reaching the top of the dome that had been flirting with adventurers for nearly 25 years in 1875. He accomplished this impossible goal by abandoning the sheer face that watches over the activity in the valley and circling around the backside where the incline is not as steep. It was in this location where he was able to attach the first set of iron bots that laid the groundwork for the famous cables that are still raised each year so that eager adventurers can continue the tradition of conquering the ancient granite monolith.
A view of Half Dome from a Four Mile Trail.
At first access to the cables was restricted only by the season, and anybody who happened to be in the area while they were in place could attempt the climb. But, as the popularity of this hike increased, so did the frequency of unnecessary risks taken by those avoiding the lines and the negative impacts of those hikers on the surrounding environment. To address this problem, the National Park Service (NPS) implemented the permit system so that the traffic on Half Dome could be better monitored and the environment could be better preserved. To obtain one of these permits, one must enter a lottery through recreation.gov that opens on March first and closes at the end of the month, however, if you do not luck out in this lottery there are smaller daily drawings during the season as well.
Although this system has been met with backlash, prior to its implementation the line to ascend the cables could be hours long at peak times of day, and there was data to suggest that injury frequency was beginning to increase as people took risks to avoid the line (this, however, is not conclusive). The permit system has been succeeding in lowering the environmental impact that hikers have on the area, and ensuring that future generations will be able to partake in this tradition for years to come, so it is unlikely that the backlash will be entertained as more than a few people annoyed that they need to plan in advance to attempt this hike.
While applying for the permit, I was constantly reminded to plan and prepare for the hike as far in advance of embarking as possible, and I definitely took that advice. I watched countless videos and read numerous blog posts about the hike and what to expect, so I knew exactly how much water, food, and what supplies to bring with me in my pack. The NPS put out a baseline estimate for water on the Half Dome page on the website and released an entire video about what to expect on this hike, stressing that the altitude gain is much more difficult than the mileage. I strongly suggest this page and video as the starting point to research this hike, as it provided me with a cut and dry explanation of what to expect that was lacking in more personal videos and articles I stumbled across online.
I was perfectly aware of the cables and the narrow saddle that connects the sub dome to Half Dome, so I already anticipated the fear that I felt at that point in my journey, but I was not prepared for the reality of the sub dome. The majority of the climb up the sub dome is a set of narrow switchbacks carved into the granite, and this is mentioned in nearly every resource I used, but what was left out was what you will face when the switchbacks end. At the top of these pseudo stairs, you will come face to face with a dauntingly smooth crest of granite with no clear path to the top. At this point, any hiker determined to reach the top of half dome must adopt some sort of bear crawl to get up and over this hurdle and stand atop the sub dome and stare across the narrow walkway to the base of the cables. This is what initially paralyzed me with fear, somehow this crawl made me feel more exposed than the entire length of the cables, at least on the cables I could cling to the cold steel.
The cables on Half Dome.
After conquering the sub dome surprise, the cables were not quite as bad as I had convinced myself that they would be. That being said, they were still terrifying in their own right and not something to take lightly. On those cables, everyone that was using them entered into a sort of friendship and understanding, and we actively encouraged and supported those around us no matter what direction they were headed or how far they made it up the cables. This was my first real experience with the hiker community, and even though everyone was climbing Half Dome for a different reason there was mutual support.
The wind at the top of Half Dome was intense, and although the day was warm, I was instantly covered in goosebumps. No matter when you attempt this hike, at least pack a light jacket because standing at that point is like standing on another planet where you are bound to freeze while gazing down at the summer you left behind. A jacket also comes in handy if you begin the hike prior to sunrise (I strongly recommend this) or return to the valley after the sun sets, both times where the mountains are very cool despite it technically being summer. Of course, there is also the backpacking option where you camp for a night in Little Yosemite Valley, but I cannot speak on this option because I tackled Half Dome as a day hike.
Once you have spent your time atop Half Dome, it will be time to head back down the cables, a journey that they will tell you is much easier, this is bullshit. Yes, heading down is not as physically taxing as heading up, but it was much more of a mental hurdle for me to overcome. Luckily that hiker community came to the rescue and a buddy who's name I never got chatted with me the entire way down until I returned once again to my partner’s side. This, however, was much easier than turning back, staring down the sub dome, and coming to the realization that I needed to somehow get back down the smooth zone I had crawled up. I burst into tears when I made this realization and continued to sniffle as my partner coaxed me into sliding down the granite and back to firm footing.
If you are planning on attempting this hike, it is necessary to do the research, plan a comprehensive gear list, and have at least one buddy that can help you overcome any crippling fear that may hit you during the journey. My partner was the most important thing that I brought with me on my Half Dome journey, and without him, all of the planning and preparation that I had done in the months leading up to the adventure would have meant nothing, which is why I suggest you do not undertake this hike alone. It really doesn’t matter how much water you bring or how fantastic your first aid kit is if something happens and there is nobody there to support you when you hit an unexpected barrier to your completion of the journey.
Half Dome Blog:
https://thereptilegoth.com/the-parchment/conquering-half-dome
References:
http://www.undiscovered-yosemite.com/climb-half-dome.html
